Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Car of the Week: Bryan Walker's 1982 Ford Mustang

Welcome to the BTE Racing Car of the Week series, where we feature our customers and fans, and the cars (and trucks) they love to race. Today, it’s all about Bryan Walker from Joplin, MO and his 1982 Ford Mustang.


How did you get into drag racing?
I'd say first and foremost my parents Ron and Dora. They raced and traveled everywhere, and Dad would let me warm up his race car. I’ve been hooked since the early 1990s.

When and where was your first race?
Mo-Kan Dragway in Asbury, MO in the mid 90s

What model/year do you race now?
Currently a 1982 Skinny Kid chassis built mustang, chrome moly, extremely light

Does your car have a nickname?
No it doesn’t currently have a nickname, but my son Jace will give it one I'm sure.

What's under the hood?
A 413 small block Ford, Dusty Frazier Trickflow R heads, 12:1 mild bracket motor

Which BTE products do you use in your vehicle?
Transmission, all transmission parts, converter, basically everything you sell because I know they are the best parts and extremely reliable.

Why do you use BTE?
A friend of mine, Tom Williams, has been after me for a couple years to use BTE stuff. BTE stands behind everything and is a very customer-oriented company.

Walker and his crew chief/wife, April Walker.

Someone you look up to in racing?
My ”mentor" Walter (Bubba) Foster has helped me get to where I am for last 10 years. Second, my good friend Jared Pennington, always there for me no matter what. He’s a great friend and even better person. Third would be Joey Keith: there through thick and thin, always willing to listen and pray and help whenever you’re in need. Fourth, Luke Bogacki, who is a really good guy, and tough as they get in racing. He’s always helping answer my questions when he can about racing. Fifth, my beautiful wife April Walker. I don’t know how she does it and puts up with all my racing, but she loves being involved and is my crew chief, as well as my biggest fan and supporter. Last but not least, my bud Jeremy Mckague, who wins bunches of big time races everywhere, and would do anything for you.

If money were no object, what would you drive?
I'd like to run super stock/stock circuit win a couple of world championships!

What is your pre-race ritual (if you have one)? 
Just the normal once over, check everything out, warm the car up, take my boy Jace for a couple of slow test passes down the return road, (he thinks we’re racing) then just focus and get prepared to go some rounds.

THANKS: I’d like to say a special thanks to all my friends, family and sponsors that support me through thick and thin, and BTE for making great products. Also Briscoe Scrap Metal, Chris Norris at Triple C Drag Race Car Insurance and Peaks Performance Powder Coating.

Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Car of the Week: Nate Burger's 1970 "Sizzling Nitrous" Chevy Nova

Welcome to the BTE Racing Car of the Week series, where we feature our customers and fans, and the cars (and trucks) they love to race. Today, it’s all about Nate Burger from Tuscon, AZ and his “Sizzling Nitrous” 1970 Chevy Nova.
How did you get into drag racing?
I rode in a friend’s truck in high school — his dad had built a rowdy 468. After that I was hooked.

When and where was your first race?
Phoenix, Arizona in 2005, in a 1981 Chevy longbed. Had to start somewhere.

What model/year do you race now?
1970 Chevy Nova

Does your car have a nickname?
Sizzling Nitrous Nova, thanks to a buddy.

What's under the hood?
555 inch Big Block Chevy, Induction Solutions plate kit and a pretty violent tuneup!

Which BTE products do you use in your vehicle?
1.80 straight cut planetary gears, overflow catch can, roller bearing support, and more soon

Why do you use BTE?
Brandon was great to work with, He was a straight shooter and told me what I was attempting to do would end in the stock 1.76 planets getting hurt. Thanks Brandon!

Someone you look up to in racing?
Ron Rhodes and all the guys who get down the track on a 275

If money were no object, what would you drive?
Same car as I have now, but done up in x275 trim.

What is your pre-race ritual (if you have one)? 
Calm myself and go through the motions, pull the belts tight and HANG ON!

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Car of the Week: Lance Howdyshell's 1977 Ford Maverick

Welcome to the BTE Racing Car of the Week series, where we feature our customers and fans, and the cars (and trucks) they love to race. Today, it’s all about Lance Howdyshell from Virginia and his “Blue Lagoon,” a 1977 Ford Maverick.

How did you get into drag racing?
My family has been doing it for 20 years, it runs in the family!

When and where was your first race?
My first race was at Eastside Speedway in Waynesboro, Virginia.. I won my first footbrake/MOD race within the first month of racing.

What model/year do you race now?
1977 Ford Maverick

Does your car have a nickname?
Blue Lagoon or Nelly

What's under the hood?
351W

Which BTE products do you use in your vehicle?
Converter

Why do you use BTE?
I found out about it through the World Footbrake Challenge race, so my dad and I gave it a try. It gets the job done!

Someone you look up to in racing?
Luke Bogacki, Nick Bowman, Chris Plott

If money were no object, what would you drive?
Nothing else. I wouldn't trade my race car for the world. It may not be much, but it gets the job done. But if I had to choose, it would be a 1969 Camaro, even though I'm a Ford guy.

What is your pre-race ritual (if you have one)?
I pray as soon as I get strapped in and before I cut my pre-stage bulb on.

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Car of the Week: Kiethan Lewis' 1990 Ford Mustang LX "Drama Queen"

Welcome to the BTE Racing Car of the Week series, where we feature our customers and fans, and the cars (and trucks) they love to race. Today, it’s all about Kiethan Lewis from Mesquite, TX and his “Drama Queen,” a 1990 Ford Mustang LX.


How did you get into drag racing?
My best friend was doing it and he let me drive his car. I’ve been hooked since! 

When and where was your first race?
I raced for the first time in 2003 at the street races in Garland, TX.

What model/year do you race now?
1990 Ford Mustang LX w/SBC 

Does your car have a nickname?
Drama Queen


What's under the hood?
421 SBC NOS motor

Which BTE products do you use in your vehicle?
9.5" torque converter and a transbrake valve body 

Why do you use BTE?
BTE is very affordable and dependable. Since I put it on my car, I have had no issues!

If money were no object, what would you drive?
2006 Corvette x275 LSX TWINS 

What is your pre-race ritual (if you have one)?
Pray for my safety. Wear my lucky slides to the track and been doing that for the last few years. They became my lucky slides after I noticed I’d been wearing them to the track and nothing bad has happened to me since.

Monday, June 1, 2015

BTE's Official Torque Converter & Transmission Installation Instructions

The proper installation of a transmission and torque converter can ensure proper operation of your new high performance products. A mistake in this process can cause catastrophic damage to any of the included components. Please follow these guidelines we've prepared based on our years of experience:

Removal

Step 1
Before you begin - let vehicle cool for about an hour. Disconnect battery. Raise vehicle and support on jack stands. The higher you raise it, the easier it is to handle.

Step 2
Drain oil from transmission by removing the drain plug. Now is a good time to install a new Drain Plug Kit. If your pan does not have a drain plug you can remove bolts from one end, allowing bolts on the other end to hold the pan. The pan will drop down, allowing the fluid to run out the end. Catch fluid in drain pan. Replace pan gasket. By removing converter dust cover, converter flywheel bolts are exposed. On Ford and Chrysler transmissions rotate convertor to locate drain plug. Remove and drain converter.

Step 3
Remove converter from flywheel. Remove four (4) bolts on Chrysler, three (3) bolts on GM, and remove four (4) nuts on Ford.

Step 4
Disconnect speedometer, selector, and throttle linkage, wires, vacuum lines, cooler connections and remove dipstick and tube. On Chrysler and Ford setups remove the starter from bellhousing. Remove driveshaft.

Step 5
Be sure to support the bottom of transmission with a transmission jack. Remove cross member. Lower the transmission slightly. Support rear of engine if engine has front mounts. Remove transmission to engine bolts. Before separating transmission from engine, take precaution to keep converter in transmission - be careful to not allow the torque converter to fall out. Remove transmission with converter.

Step 6
Remove converter from transmission carefully.

FORD C-4 & C-6 transmissions warning:
Input shaft can at times pull out with converter. Try to avoid this. Because some Ford input shafts can only be installed one way due to spline length difference, installing shaft the wrong way will damage converter. Check with local Ford service department for correct installation. If the shaft slipped part of the way out, simply push it back as far as it will go. Inspect input shaft for wear and burrs. You may need to replace the input shaft. BTE has several different applications available.

Inspection

Step 1
Old converter hub must be inspected for wear, scoring or damage. Such defects indicate that the front pump bushing should be replaced before installing the new converter. The front pump seal should also be replaced. The body of the seal can be distorted by improper installation. Failure to attend to these two steps can result in damage to the new converter and cause leaks.

Step 2 
Check the mating surfaces of transmission case and engine block for nicks, dirt, etc. Use a file to remove raised areas when necessary - be careful not to remove metal from mating surfaces! Examine converter pilot and crank pilot hole for dirt, rust, paint, etc. Clean as necessary with sandpaper.

Step 3 
Inspect engine block dowel pins. Pins must be secure and in good condition. Replace if loose or damaged. Also check the condition of the dowel holes in the case. If damaged, they must be sleeved. BTE can supply extra-long new dowel pins.

Step 4
Inspect splined couplings (input shaft and stator support) for burrs and damage. A burred or damaged spline can cause difficulty at installation, if not impossible. A burred spline can easily be corrected. Use a small triangle file, remove burrs the length of the spline. After burrs have been removed, position a straight edge in the same manner as the triangle file. Using the straight edge as a guide, check to make sure the splines are not twisted. Twisted splines should be replaced should they be moved over 1/2 spline.

Step 5
Coat the surface of the hub of the converter with automatic transmission fluid. For racing applications or vehicles that are used for towing, pour one (1) quart of transmission fluid in converter. Install converter on transmission carefully, supporting the weight of it to avoid damage to the front pump seal. Rotate converter as you push it on. The splined couplings (input shaft and stator support) and the pump lugs must engage properly to allow the converter to slide all the way onto the transmission. The distance between the converter mount mating surface and the flywheel or flexplate should not be greater than 3/32". Pull converter off slightly, then push it on again, rotating it at the same time until proper clearance is obtained. Do not proceed further until you have installed converter properly.

Installation

Step 1 
Install transmission on dowel pins. Converter must be free to rotate and to move forward and backward (end-play) after transmission is bolted to engine. Transmission and converter should mate with engine, crankshaft, and flywheel with relative ease. Face of transmission flange must be flush with engine all the way around before any bolts are tightened. Never use bolts to 'draw up' transmission to case. The transmission should not be allowed to hang on the dowel pins. Transmission must be supported until at least two (2) bolts have been installed and fully tightened.

Depth Clearance:
Chrysler - Torqueflite 727 1-1/4" from Bell Housing to Ring Gear
GM Turbo-Hydramatic 350 1-1/8" from Bell Housing to Pads
GM Turbo-Hydramatic 400 1-3/16" from Bell Housing to Pads
GM Powerglide 1-1/8" to 1-1/16" from Bell Housing to Pads
Ford C-6 1-1/8" from Bell Housing to Pads

* Distance may vary either way .050".


Step 2 
After transmission and converter are bolted together check converter for freedom of movement. Make sure converter can rotate and has end-play. Converter must be free to move a minimum of 1/8", but not more than 3/16". If converter has no end-play, converter was installed improperly. Remove transmission and correct problem.

Ford C-4 & C-6 Transmissions: Drain plugs must be exposed through holes in flexplate.

Chrysler Transmissions: Align small hole in flexplate opposite converter drain plug. This will align all four (4) converter bolts properly.

Step 3 
Complete the transmission installation only when end-play is satisfactory. Apply Loctite to converter bolts or nuts, then tighten to 30 ft/lbs.


Step 4 
Elevate rear wheels 3" off ground. Install four (4) quarts transmission fluid. Use a good grade of automatic transmission fluid. BTE can supply you with racing fluid. Start engine and finish filling transmission as quickly as possible. Do not overfill. Shift transmission through all gears with light throttle and recheck fluid level. Fluid level should be one (1) pint low with selector in neutral or park when vehicle is on level. Check at operation temperature should be on full mark.

Step 5
Inspect for leaks with engine running. Inspect all connections (cooler lines and radiator fittings).

Step 6 
Cooler line fittings must be tightened to 12 ft/lbs. Use caution, over-tightening can cause transmission case to burst at fittings. Do not use teflon tape.